![]() ![]() Encouraged by his mother, who sensed in the pursuit "a masculine, character-building quality", Greenberg learned to fish in Long Island Sound. That there's another side to the aquaculture issue, and that some of the best minds in world science are trained on it is made clear in Paul Greenberg's accessible and enlightening Four Fish. If other people wanted to put this stuff in their mouths, fine. Where wild salmon had made epic journeys, growing to adulthood in the ocean before battling up-river to spawn, these zombie-fish had spent their lives in cages, ingesting a murky backwash of growth-pellets and their own faeces. As an angler, I knew what healthy salmon looked like – streamlined bars of silver, full-finned, hard with muscle – and the spongy cadavers I had begun to see on certain supermarket and fishmonger's slabs, with their stunted fins, deformed gill-covers, and artificially pink flesh, were anything but healthy. If I had been wary about eating farmed fish up to that point, I was doubly so thereafter. A few years ago, as part of a journalistic assignment, I was crossing the North Sea by nuclear submarine, and just before I was put ashore on the west coast of Scotland, the vessel voided its waste tanks into the waters of the inlet, along whose shoreline extended a salmon farm. ![]()
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